Down is a popular insulation material for outdoor jackets, as it is lightweight despite its good thermal insulation properties. However, down is expensive and a problematic material both ethically and environmentally. Synthetic materials used as substitutes are not better for the environment.
The four-year Penguin project, coordinated by VTT and launched in May, is developing, among other things, cellulose-based insulation materials and textile fibers for outdoor clothing.
“The goal of the entire project is to develop and validate a prototype of a bio-based and recyclable outdoor jacket,” says the Doctor of Technology Emmi-Maria Nuutinen, who acts as the project coordinator.
Spinnova is also participating in the international project from Finland.
“We took inspiration from the structure of a penguin’s feathers. We set out to build an insulating layer of cellulose fiber, the fabric corresponds to a denser layer of feathers, and various protective finishing layers correspond to the fat in penguin feathers.”
Smart technology included
Textile fiber is developed based on the partners' own technologies. Insulation material is made using air and foam webs.
"Air-jetting is currently being done on a laboratory scale, but a pilot is under construction and a pilot already exists for foam jetting. The first test pieces have already been made, but of course a lot of optimization and testing of properties is still needed."
The biggest challenge is to modify the properties of cellulose fiber so that it also works in humid conditions.
"The challenge is to develop a material made entirely of cellulose that meets the end user's criteria. We are trying to make cellulose insulation such that it can withstand active use without its thermal insulation performance being impaired by moisture."
VTT in Oulu is developing smart technology to be added to the jacket in connection with the project. The aim is to introduce thermal elements to the garment that help the insulation layer stay dry. In the prototype phase, the jacket will also include sensors that provide usage data on how well it manages temperature and humidity.
Emmi-Maria Nuutinen believes in the success of the project.
"There has been a good atmosphere here since the application stage and a feeling that together we will succeed in this."
Inspiration from the penguin
The Penguin project (Bioinspired and advanced fibres and materials for sustainable outdoor textiles with biomimetic functionalities) involves a total of 10 partners from Finland, Sweden, Portugal, Italy and Spain. The project has received approximately EUR 6,5 million in funding through the EU's Horizon programme, and its total budget is EUR 7,6 million.